The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on